Part 1:
Flash fact #1: Every flash photograph is two exposures in one
Flash fact #2*: Flash exposure is not affected by shutter speed
Flash fact #3: Flash illumination is dramatically affected by distance
Flash fact #4: Your camera measures ambient light and flash illumination separately
Flash fact #5: With automatic flash metering, the flash illumination
is measured after the shutter button is pressed, and the flash output is
adjusted accordingly
Flash fact #6*: Every SLR camera with a mechanical shutter has a maximum flash sync shutter speed
Flash fact #7*: If you’re using flash for fill in bright situations, it’s necessary to
stop down the aperture or lower the ISO setting to get the shutter speed
below flash sync.
Part 2:
Prompt 1: The further your subject, the more powerful flash you need.
Prompt 2: Because the flash is not effected by shutter speed, keeping the shutter open longer will not illuminate
your subject any more; it will however cause more ambient light in and
open up the possibilities to blurred photos. Flash photography is affected by ISO settings, the higher ISO the more effective your flash becomes at any given distance.
Prompt 3: At a certain point, your flash simply doesn’t have enough power to effectively illuminate and reflect light back to your camera.
Prompt 4: The maximum shutter sync speed of 1/200th of a second.
Prompt 5: The guide number for an electronic flash is a way of quantifying its
maximum output in terms that a photographer can relate to – aperture and
distance. The guide number is the product of the aperture and distance combination that will result
in enough light for proper exposure.
Prompt 6: Light will reflect and refract off of objects and often times a straight
on flash will not give the desired results, especially when shooting
people.You can soften the light from the flash by bouncing it, most commonly
off a ceiling. Angle your flash head at 45 degrees or off a wall at 45
degrees for a side bounce. When there is no ceiling or wall to bounce
off of, a modifier like an Omni-Bounce by Stofen can help diffuse the
light and simulate a ceiling.
Prompt 7: Moving the flash off the hot shoe by utilizing a flash bracket has two
main advantages. When shooting people, moving the flash further away
from the lens will near totally eliminate all chances of red-eye.
Secondly, most all flash brackets have a pivot point in them, a hinge if
you will. This allows them to rotate 90 degrees so the flash stays
above the lens when shooting vertically, giving you a more pleasing
shadow and voiding the side flash.
Part 3:
Slow Sync is useful when shooting in low light, allowing a long exposure
to be combined with a brief burst of flash. Rear Curtain Sync allows
you to fire the flash at the end of an exposure, rather than at the
start.
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