Friday, January 31, 2014

EOS 6D vs. Rebel T3i

EOS 6D

* Low noise at high ISO
* Great image quality
* Great color depth
* Wide dynamic range

Rebel T3i

* High resolution screen
* Flip-out screen
* Self cleaning sensor
* Built-in focus motor


Wednesday, January 29, 2014

Landscape Preview

Tip:

Use a Tripod

ex:
Place:

I think a forest would be a fun place to shoot landscape.

Tip for Forest:

As with any photograph, find a point of interest. It might be one slightly different tree trunk, a path winding through, or a splash of color on a flowering vine. Whatever it is, compose in such a way to lead the viewer to it. Look for shafts of light penetrating the canopy or one spot on the forest floor directly lit by the sun.

ex:
Favorite Landscape Pictures from http://www.boredpanda.com/amazing-landscape-photos/

 


Dragisa Petrovic

  
  
I can not find information on any of the photographers.


  

Monday, January 27, 2014

Light Basics and Vocabulary

The five basic lighting techniques:

Butterfly (or Paramount) -- paramount lighting, sometimes called butterfly lighting or glamour lighting, is a traditionally feminine lighting pattern that produces a symmetrical, butterfly-like shadow beneath the subject’s nose.
 
Loop -- Loop lighting is a minor variation of Paramount lighting. This is one of the more commonly used lighting setups and is ideal for people with average, oval-shaped faces.
Rembrandt -- Rembrandt lighting is characterized by a small, triangular highlight on the shadowed cheek of the subject.

Split -- Split lighting occurs when the key light illuminates only half the face.


Broad and Short -- Broad portrait lighting is when the main light is illuminating the broad side of the face and the shadow from the nose is being cast onto the shot side of the face. Short portrait lighting is when the main light is coming from the short side of the subject and the broad side of the face is more in shadow.


Terms:
* Fill light(filler)-Fill is used to lighten shadows and control Contrast and Lighting Ratios.
* Key light (main light)- The key may determine the character of the lighting, but often a strong Back Light for example, sets the Mood.
* Hair light- An Accent Light presumably limited to the top of the head. Sometimes only a Back Light with delusions of grandeur and fancy-colored gels.
* Background light (set light)- Reveals the character of the background and helps separate it from the subject
* Shadowless-
*Hard light- A relatively small, direct, usually focusable source, with or without lens, that produces strong High-lights and dark shadows.
* Soft light- Diffused, Bounced, indirect light; the opposite of Hard Light.
* Grey card- A Matte 18% reflectance card used instead of a subject for a Reflected Light Meter reading.
* Reflector- Variously shaped "bowls" that shape and intensify a lamp's Beam.
* Diffuser- A Translucent material placed in front of a Light to soften Highlights and Shadows, reduce Contrast and increase Beam Angle.
* Intensity (Strength, or how to set shutter speed and aperture's appropriate to portraits)- The "strength" of the Incident Light independent of subject reflectivity, commonly measured in Foot Candles or Lux.
* 3:1 lighting ratio- A 3:1 lighting ratio occurs when the light discrepancy between two light sources is one and a half f-stops.

Five Characteristics of Light: 
* Direction- Where the light is coming from
* Intensity- brightness
* Color- What color is the light 
* Contrast- amount of transitions from highlights to shadows
* Hardness- edges of the shadows intensity

Thursday, January 23, 2014

Virtual Copies and Snapshots

1) You can export one snapshot at a time when using lightroom.

2) Only the one snapshot you select to export will be exported to where ever you assign it.

3) You simply press [ctrl +], and edit to make virtual copies.

4) The advantage to using virtual copies/images rather than snapshots is the fact that virtual images gives you more options to export many versions of the same photo.

5) If the selected version was not the virtual copy you will see the prompt “Delete the selected master photo from disk, or just remove it from Lightroom?”. This tells you that the selected image is not the virtual copy but the original.

Color
 B&W
Duo-toned


Friday, January 10, 2014

Flash Facts and Skills

Part 1:
Flash fact #1: Every flash photograph is two exposures in one

Flash fact #2*: Flash exposure is not affected by shutter speed

Flash fact #3: Flash illumination is dramatically affected by distance

Flash fact #4: Your camera measures ambient light and flash illumination separately

Flash fact #5: With automatic flash metering, the flash illumination is measured after the shutter button is pressed, and the flash output is adjusted accordingly

Flash fact #6*: Every SLR camera with a mechanical shutter has a maximum flash sync shutter speed

Flash fact #7*: If you’re using flash for fill in bright situations, it’s necessary to stop down the aperture or lower the ISO setting to get the shutter speed below flash sync.


Part 2:
Prompt 1: The further your subject, the more powerful flash you need.

Prompt 2: Because the flash is not effected by shutter speed, keeping the shutter open longer will not illuminate your subject any more; it will however cause more ambient light in and open up the possibilities to blurred photos.  Flash photography is affected by ISO settings, the higher ISO the more effective your flash becomes at any given distance.

Prompt 3: At a certain point, your flash simply doesn’t have enough power to effectively illuminate and reflect light back to your camera.

Prompt 4: The maximum shutter sync speed of 1/200th of a second.

Prompt 5:  The guide number for an electronic flash is a way of quantifying its maximum output in terms that a photographer can relate to – aperture and distance. The guide number is the product of the aperture and distance combination that will result in enough light for proper exposure.

Prompt 6: Light will reflect and refract off of objects and often times a straight on flash will not give the desired results, especially when shooting people.You can soften the light from the flash by bouncing it, most commonly off a ceiling.  Angle your flash head at 45 degrees or off a wall at 45 degrees for a side bounce.  When there is no ceiling or wall to bounce off of, a modifier like an Omni-Bounce by Stofen can help diffuse the light and simulate a ceiling.

Prompt 7: Moving the flash off the hot shoe by utilizing a flash bracket has two main advantages.  When shooting people, moving the flash further away from the lens will near totally eliminate all chances of red-eye.  Secondly, most all flash brackets have a pivot point in them, a hinge if you will.  This allows them to rotate 90 degrees so the flash stays above the lens when shooting vertically, giving you a more pleasing shadow and voiding the side flash.


Part 3:
Slow Sync is useful when shooting in low light, allowing a long exposure to be combined with a brief burst of flash. Rear Curtain Sync allows you to fire the flash at the end of an exposure, rather than at the start.
 

Wednesday, January 8, 2014

2013 best photos of the year

1) Style: Street (Urban), Photojournalism
2) Rules of Comp.: simplicity(background)
3) Lighting: Natural Sun light (cloudy day)
4) Work: There was hardly any work involved for this photo, but there was a difficult source of light so there was probably setting issues.
1) Style: Street (Urban), Photojournalism
2) Rule of Comp: Viewpoint, Background
3) Lighting: Artificial Street Light
4) Work: The photographer had to be in the right place at the right time.
1) Style: Street (Urban), Photojournalism
2) Rule of Comp.: Simplicity, Viewpoint, Avoiding Mergers
3) Lighting: Natural Sun Light
4) Work: Right place at the right time.
I can't pick a favorite so here are my favorite photos of 2013. All I believe are journalism photos.